Recently a flurry of comments responded to the Ottawa Citizen’s Food Section editor Ron Eade’s blog about the sudden closure of Benitz’s Bistro, a chef-driven Ottawa restaurant manned by Chef Derek Benitz and his wife. I met Derek only once, at a Savour Ottawa food event—and I recognized him immediately: he had the same wild, harried look I see sometimes in my own eyes, usually right as the latest bus is barreling down the ramp towards me. I do not profess to know him and I do not write this as any sort of defense; this is just my emotional reaction to the piece as presented in the Ottawa Citizen’s ‘Omnivore’s Ottawa’ blog…But, like I mentioned, it was a Savour Ottawa event where I met him, and that means that he was on my team, a local foods guy, a guy with values, someone else who is out there trying to change the system. Turns out, we are alike in more ways than one…the fact is that I gasped as I read the article, airing out the Benitz family’s dirty laundry—knowing that my own story would read, depending on how it was written, with just as much seemingly salacious detail...the unpaid bills, the personal failures, trials and errors that seemed to err more than try...Whatever catastrophe finally pushed Derek and his business past the point of no return, I haven’t got a clue, but I do know this; ‘There, but for the grace of God, go I....’
I don’t know if my business will still be here next week. At the time of this writing there are any of a dozen different serious crises that could destroy the last four years of blood, sweat, and tears that have made the branch restaurant what it has become. Another slow week and we’ll miss one of two payments, either to HST, who will freeze our account, seize whatever they can get and prevent us from paying any other bills, or to our mortgage company...who, probably, wouldn’t do anything right away, but they could, and that would set a very bad domino at the front of a long line of other bad dominos into a forward falling motion--you know, like that HST I mentioned, or PST, source deductions...payroll, our liquor license renewal, or any of a number of other creditors including our families, our friends...purveyors, artists; all of whom expect and often need for us to pay them.... Or the walk-in refrigerator could stop working, or the stove.... The health unit could decide our grace period for putting in a new kitchen floor was over. Or I could get run over by a bus. We don’t see too many buses in Kemptville these days, but, you know, it could happen. Everyone always throws that ‘run over by a bus’ line into the string of worst case scenarios; I wonder how that started? I know why it’s there; it’s a placeholder, a reminder—‘it could be worse!’, ‘You’ve got your health!’, or more to the point...’quit complaining! Life is short, get on with it!’
My dad was an entrepreneur; that’s where I got the bug. Even before he opened ‘Samuel’s’, his namesake restaurant, the place where I fell in love with this, with my industry, (and, perhaps more importantly, his last business...) he had a string of other ventures, including, you guessed it, a bus station. That idea, getting run over by a bus, resonates in a strange way to me—Some folks, when they hear that, probably picture a bus from the outside, from a distance—I was so young and at such an exploratory age when we had the bus station that sometimes it feels like I was born on one. Like a bus is in my DNA. I don’t just picture it...I hear it rumble, belch, and hiss, I smell diesel, the sooty smoke, I remember standing next to the wheels when they were so tall that I couldn’t touch the tops. I remember crawling through the luggage compartments, unlatching the whole back end to reveal the gigantic motor; I remember the antiseptic smell of the on-board washroom, the fabric and vinyl seats, the ashtrays in the armrests at the back, the bus driver with his giant movie-screen-sized windshield. But mostly, I remember my Dad, the boss of the bus; conducting a symphony of bus; choreographing a ballet of bus. Yeah, I could get run over by a bus; in some ways, I already did.
In 2006, it occurred to me for the first time that I might actually be able to open my own business. I got run over by a bus when the first dozen attempts at financing fell through, then in October of that year I got hit by another bus when we actually opened our doors. I got run over by another one on our first busy night, during the blackout, again when the Hydro company threatened to shut us off because of a stack of mis-mailed bills, when I had to fire someone for the first time, when a cook unplugged the meat fridge overnight, when the health inspector showed up during a busy lunch, when we over-prepared for an Ottawa festival by a factor of ten and got stuck holding the bag.... When I got my first complaint, when I got my first review which implied (mistakenly) that I served grapefruit! (...it was grape chutney, Anne; the grapes were from our own vine out back!) Honestly? I’ve been hit by, knocked down with, run over by, and sent to the back of the bus in some way or another every week since we opened.
But every time, I have gotten back up. We did find financing, we survived opening, busy nights and blackouts, we passed health inspections (with flying colours, in case you’re worried...) and have paid our bills, paid our bills, and paid our bills; sometimes late, sometimes on installments, and sometimes with little more than promises and hopes. But when push has come to shove, for four and a half years, we have rolled up our sleeves, gotten back up and we have done what had to be done.
And more. We started a thriving Farmers’ Market; we host three or four charity events every year. We provide an income and stability to our employees and their families. We manage the upkeep of a piece of local history, our 160 year old stone and timber building in the heart of downtown. There is nothing farther away from staring at the grill of that oncoming Greyhound than reading our customer comment cards that say: ‘excellent, excellent, excellent, amazing, 10 out of 10, best meal ever!’ Or, ‘we love it here!’
And we have managed this entire project in line with our values. I set out to open an organic and local foods restaurant, a business that did minimal impact to an environment that is even more stressed out than me—And, four and a half years later, we still buy local and organic as much as or more than the day we opened—more than almost anyone you know—Our meats do not come from factories, our vegetables taste fresh from the field because they are, and our pantry is stocked, floor to ceiling with certified organic foods. We still use natural, biodegradable cleaners, recycled and compostable paper goods, and we don’t even have a dumpster because most of our waste is either recycled or composted...In addition to those local, small farmed and natural meats, we include lots of healthy, vegetarian and vegan options, we use mostly whole grains and we even control portions of salt and fats, easy to do when you prepare almost everything from scratch—and you don’t even have to ask us about MSG or trans-fat because there is none here. We don’t have to add veggies to our kid’s meals, they already have them.
For now. Today, we are here; tomorrow, I may get run over by a bus.
Which brings me back to Ron Eade’s blog and Benitz’s bistro. The comments on the blog were what really got to me. They ranged in scope from impassioned defense to cruel accusation, and, in all truth, having nothing more than a passing recollection of the chef in question, I cannot say where the blame should lie. But here is what I imagine: Derek had another slow week. Fewer customers came in than the week before, fewer regulars returned, fewer new people saw the sign or the ads. A bill was put off, because there wasn’t quite as much money as he thought there would be. He worked harder, he made the food better, he tried a new approach, but, whatever it was, it didn’t take. He had another slow week, he put off another bill. A piece of equipment broke, it slowed service, it made his work harder, but there was no money to fix it, so he plugged on, worked around it. The slower service turned a few people who were on the line about his restaurant around—they told a friend or two, and Derek had another slow week. Each of these things became a domino in a row, the bills, the broken equipment, the slower service, and as each one of those dominos lined up, he tried new things, he crossed his fingers and he hoped. He stuck to his guns, he worked on the delivery, on cutting costs, on keeping people happy...But one day, he put off one bill too many, or maybe something else broke that he couldn’t repair. One day the bus ran him down and he couldn’t get back up.
Was this a personal failure? Should he have fought on against all odds? Sure. I have this conversation with myself every week, and if I didn’t keep saying ‘Yes! Fight on! Find a way!’ then this adventure would have ended in defeat long before this day...But does that make him a villain? No. Fraudulent? Again, no. Our culture is littered with stories of winning against all odds, of pulling ourselves up by our own bootstraps, of turning lemons into lemonade....To have quit any sooner than was absolutely necessary would have been his, and would also be my end. As long as there is a chance that this company can turn itself around, I will keep trying. As long as people keep turning up, keep encouraging us to succeed, keep thanking us for doing what we do, I will keep on fighting, I will keep on trying.
My Dad showed me how to put those buses in line. He taught me how to be not just a business owner, but a good one, a fair one—but in the end, a restaurant took him down. Restaurants are bigger than buses, and meaner; just ask Derek Benitz, or, I’m sure 99 out of 100 restaurant owners you could meet. Margins are slim, diners are fickle, trends and tastes change with the wind and season. And how many newspapers have a ‘Haircut Reviews’ section waiting to pounce on the first barber who tapers unevenly or fails to provide a perfect bob? Restaurants are hard work; they are demanding, intense and unforgiving.
My restaurant may not be here next week. It probably will, and every instinct has told me not to tell this story, this truth, to let you see behind the veil.... But I get tired when I see good guys like Derek lose the fight, like my brother, like my dad. I don’t want to be one of those guys or gals. I made it past the first hurdle; I didn’t fail, like 23% do, in my first year, and I’d like to not be one of the 60% that fail in the first five....The fact is that I love this place. I love the work, I love the response, I love the people, I love being able to effect change by the simple fact of existing and I love that I don’t have to be like McDonald’s, The Keg, or the Olive Garden to do it. I love that I can depend on local farmers and not buy from big, industrial suppliers like the others. But if I’ve learned anything, if stories like Derek’s have taught me anything, it’s that I’m not going to succeed by laying down in the ditch, waiting for the trouble to pass, I’ve got to get out in front of that bus and make the driver stop and let me on.
So here goes. Tomorrow, I really could get run over by a bus, so it’s time for me to quit complaining and to get on with it. So what, pray tell, am I trying to say? How about this: if you value your local and local foods restaurants, visit them. Frequent them. This is not an easy business; fun, yes, but not easy. Come to the branch; buy something this week or next. If you can’t come, send a friend; if you can come, bring a friend. We want to succeed. We want nothing more than to offer you a little home away from home; a friendly, smiling face, and a great meal grown and raised by the good people all around you. If you value that in us, if you value that in any restaurant, then support us. Support all of us; give us a chance to get on the bus. Honestly? Give us a chance to drive the bus.
And that is what I really want to say.
authentic texas specialties, amazing live music, incredible selection of local, microbrewed draft beers and locally sourced and organic foods...
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
August Newsletter 2011
Well, August is upon us, and all I can say is…wow. The fact is, I’ve written a very difficult story this month. It was difficult to write and has been even more difficult to send, but I hope you’ll take a minute (…OK, more like 15 minutes, who am I kidding?) and read it, and, maybe, if you’d like, share it, pass it along...I don’t know. You’ll see what I’m talking about. So anyway, that’s out of the way…let’s talk news….
Tonight (if you’re getting this on Tuesday August 2nd) is a Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute at the branch…Jerry was the center of the musical phenomenon, The Grateful Dead, that sprang out of the idealistic and slightly drugged up culture that was San Francisco in the 60s—I’ve lived in SF (not in the 60s, duh.), I’ve enjoyed their music for years, and I even got to see a show, in 1989, just a few short years before Jerry died and music lost his unique voice forever…His songs, ones he co-wrote or even just performed, however, live on…tonight, with the help of host, Dave Scully, we will celebrate his life and legacy with an intimate show and some jams at the branch, come on out if you are interested in good music or even, really, just good times.
August Art and August Charity Event and August Movie Night:
I’ll cover a couple more points of interest before I get to the rest of the music. August, at the branch, has become the month we set aside to support one of our finest local charities: Ryan’s Well. The following Press Release gives a pretty good run-down of the month’s clean water initiative related events: please feel free to cut and paste it in part or in total and send it around to anyone and/or everyone that you think may be interested:
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Thirsty? Glass of water only 25¢ during August.
Ryan’s Well won’t run dry this summer with the help of the branch restaurant and its generous customers.
For every glass of water served this month, guests are encouraged to donate 25¢ towards Ryan’s Well Foundation programs; the branch restaurant will match the donations collected and present them to the internationally recognized Kemptville-based charity.
In 1998, when local boy Ryan Hreljac was in Grade 1, he learned from his teacher that people were dying because they didn't have clean water to drink. He decided that raising money for those without access to this basic need was the right thing to do. He worked for four months doing extra chores around his house to earn his first $70. Ryan was just seven years old when his first well was built in 1999 at a school in a Ugandan village. The well continues to serve thousands of people. Ryan's vision, as a young boy in 1998 and to this day as a young man, is for every person in the world to have a simple necessity – access to safe water. Ryan and his Foundation continue to pursue this goal of clean water and sanitation for all. The Foundation has helped build 682 water projects and 821 latrines, bringing safe water and improved sanitation to 723,375 people.
Ryan’s story has made people realize that anyone, even kids in Grade 1, can make a difference.
In late February 2010, Ryan's Well representatives travelled to Uganda and were joined by professional photographer, Lesley Marino. Ms. Marino’s photos capture the incredible people, communities, struggles, impacts, and un-told stories the water and sanitation projects - her incredible photography really does prove that a picture is worth 1,000 words.
The branch restaurant is honoured to have Ms. Marino’s photos documenting the work of Ryan’s Well on display during the month of August. Don’t miss the opportunity to view them anytime this month. Come to the vernissage and meet the artist on Tuesday, August 23rdfrom 5 to 8pm.
Thirsty for more about water? Sustainable North Grenville is pleased to screen the movie 'Blue Gold’: World Water Wars' at The Branch Restaurant on Monday, August 8th, which also features Kemptville’s Ryan Hreljac.
Doors open at 6:45 with refreshments, a light buffet, coffee and sweets by donation, as well as a cash bar. The film starts at 7:00pm. $5.00 admission at the door.' For more info contact the branch restaurant , 15 Clothier Street East, Old Town Kemptville, 613-258-3737.
August Music:
As mentioned, tonight we will feature host Dave Scully leading us in a Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute and jam…bring a guitar or something, it’s gonna be fun…(Tuesday, August 2; 7pm, no cover) This Friday and for three other Fridays this month, Frank and Birdie will be back singing songs of love, redemption and hope. And meatballs (Fridays 5, 19 &26; 7pm, no cover). This Saturday, Trevor Alguire is bringing his original country rock and rootsy stylings back to the branch… not only is he the master of the soulful country rock ballad, I've also been informed that he is also the master of a triple olly on a half-pipe (...a poor attempt by this clumsy fella at a skateboard in-joke, in case you were wondering...) but Saturday, he is back for another night of magic in his 'favourite place to play',(...but I'm sure he says that to all the venues...blushes...) (Saturday, August 6; 9pm, $10)
Next Friday, come see the Heroic Mad Peasants, aka; Shawn, Katie and Doug, as they bring their strings and sings from folk to roots to harmony and back again for all ages, from all ages and, despite the name, with hardly ever a single torch and pitchfork laden march on the town square to date. You wouldn’t want to miss the first one though, would you? Just sayin…(Friday, August 12; 7pm, no cover.) And next Saturday, speaking of heroic mad people, Brandon Agnew, branch favourite and one of Ottawa’s most exciting hidden treasures is back—Brandon brings a bit of New Orleans grit to a unique, honest lyric driven style that ranges from folk to indie to a kind of outsider jazz—He is a character, a storyteller, and an excellent way to spend a Saturday night! (Saturday, August 13; 9pm, $5)
The following Thursday is the return of Christo—The young talented Mr. Graham is well known locally for his precocious talent, at the tender age of just like 17 or 18 or something, he is at the branch to release his third(!) cd…He is joined on the record by Amanda Giles and for the show will feature a band going under the moniker ‘The Men of Science’. This, my friends, is a must-see. (Thursday, August 18; 9pm, $5) But just in case you can’t make it…he’s back with his pal Alex Leggett on that Saturday…Alex is another young, vibrant spirit—a Ganonoque kid whose music has taken from our nearest shore to a number of other venues abroad, including Wakefield’s famous stage at the Black Sheep Inn. He will be joined by Christo Graham as an opener, followed by a headline set of his own original pop and indie tunes. It’s a smiley show, folks, highly recommended! (Saturday, August 20; 9pm, $5)
Come back the next Thursday for another cd release show, this time with touring songstress Sarah MacDougall, her bio says it all: “Sarah MacDougall is a rising star on the Canadian Folk Music scene with her dynamite songs, blistering guitar chops and astounding voice. She has been earning rave reviews and topping major music writers top ten album of the year lists as a songwriter with her official debut album Across the Atlantic (2009), all the while producing and engineering her own music. Born in Sweden, 24 hrs Vancouver called her ‘one of the most promising exports out of Sweden since Abba’ and Across the Atlantic got four-star reviews in such notable publications as Q magazine, the Irish Times, No Depression, and many more.” So yeah, that’s Kemptville on Thursday night, where are you gonna be? Patrick Brealey, another touring singer songwriter will be opening… (Thursday August 25; 9pm--$10 advance or $12 at the door). Then come on back that Saturday for…well…me! That’s right, I, Chef Bruce, will be taking on a Saturday night on August 27thfor a rare appearance with the latest incarnation of a bit of a band thing we’ve got happening these days…aka ‘The Burning Sensations,’ featuring Jay Williams on bass and Ben Mullin on guitar, as well as some other folks, if they’re willin’! (Saturday, August 27; 9pm, no cover!)
OK, so I came to Canada for the first time in 2003 and settled here officially in 2005…So let’s just say I missed out on the whole ‘Spirit of the West’ thing…Trust me, I am making up for lost time. The branch is honoured this month to be a host to an actual Canadian legend, John Mann, lead singer and songwriter for the popular and talented band in question: here’s and excerpt from his website: ‘Mann pens beautiful melodies with emotionally honest lyrics that capture the intimate moments of his hometown of Vancouver, its occupants, the fragile details of their dysfunctional love and the loss of a city’s innocence. If Damien Rice was Jeff Tweedy and Jeff Tweedy was Josh Ritter, you’d come away with something kindred to December Looms.’ That, my friends is the making of an exciting evening at the branch—one to tell the kids about…(Tuesday, August 30; 8pm $22) Best to reserve ahead for this one, it is already filling up!
August Calendar:
Tuesday 2 ~ Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute ...Deadheads Unite! ...7pm, free!
Friday 5 ~ Frank Westernand Birdie Whyte...7pm, free!
Saturday 6 ~ Trevor Alguire, he's back! ...9pm, $10
Friday 12 ~ Heroic Mad Peasants …7pm, free!
Saturday 13 ~ Brandon Agnew...9pm, $5
Thursday 18 ~ Christo Graham, CD Release Party! ...9pm, $5
Friday 19 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte...7pm, free!
Saturday 20 ~ Alex Leggett...9pm, $5
Thursday 25 ~ Sarah Macdougall, 9pm, $12 ($10 advance) with Patrick Brealeyopening
Friday 26 ~ Frank Westernand Birdie Whyte...7pm, free!
Saturday 27 ~ Chef Bruce and the Burning Sensations …9pm, free!
Tuesday 30 ~ John Mann, former ‘Spirit of the West’ …8pm, $22
Tonight (if you’re getting this on Tuesday August 2nd) is a Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute at the branch…Jerry was the center of the musical phenomenon, The Grateful Dead, that sprang out of the idealistic and slightly drugged up culture that was San Francisco in the 60s—I’ve lived in SF (not in the 60s, duh.), I’ve enjoyed their music for years, and I even got to see a show, in 1989, just a few short years before Jerry died and music lost his unique voice forever…His songs, ones he co-wrote or even just performed, however, live on…tonight, with the help of host, Dave Scully, we will celebrate his life and legacy with an intimate show and some jams at the branch, come on out if you are interested in good music or even, really, just good times.
August Art and August Charity Event and August Movie Night:
I’ll cover a couple more points of interest before I get to the rest of the music. August, at the branch, has become the month we set aside to support one of our finest local charities: Ryan’s Well. The following Press Release gives a pretty good run-down of the month’s clean water initiative related events: please feel free to cut and paste it in part or in total and send it around to anyone and/or everyone that you think may be interested:
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Thirsty? Glass of water only 25¢ during August.
Ryan’s Well won’t run dry this summer with the help of the branch restaurant and its generous customers.
For every glass of water served this month, guests are encouraged to donate 25¢ towards Ryan’s Well Foundation programs; the branch restaurant will match the donations collected and present them to the internationally recognized Kemptville-based charity.
In 1998, when local boy Ryan Hreljac was in Grade 1, he learned from his teacher that people were dying because they didn't have clean water to drink. He decided that raising money for those without access to this basic need was the right thing to do. He worked for four months doing extra chores around his house to earn his first $70. Ryan was just seven years old when his first well was built in 1999 at a school in a Ugandan village. The well continues to serve thousands of people. Ryan's vision, as a young boy in 1998 and to this day as a young man, is for every person in the world to have a simple necessity – access to safe water. Ryan and his Foundation continue to pursue this goal of clean water and sanitation for all. The Foundation has helped build 682 water projects and 821 latrines, bringing safe water and improved sanitation to 723,375 people.
Ryan’s story has made people realize that anyone, even kids in Grade 1, can make a difference.
In late February 2010, Ryan's Well representatives travelled to Uganda and were joined by professional photographer, Lesley Marino. Ms. Marino’s photos capture the incredible people, communities, struggles, impacts, and un-told stories the water and sanitation projects - her incredible photography really does prove that a picture is worth 1,000 words.
The branch restaurant is honoured to have Ms. Marino’s photos documenting the work of Ryan’s Well on display during the month of August. Don’t miss the opportunity to view them anytime this month. Come to the vernissage and meet the artist on Tuesday, August 23rdfrom 5 to 8pm.
Thirsty for more about water? Sustainable North Grenville is pleased to screen the movie 'Blue Gold’: World Water Wars' at The Branch Restaurant on Monday, August 8th, which also features Kemptville’s Ryan Hreljac.
Doors open at 6:45 with refreshments, a light buffet, coffee and sweets by donation, as well as a cash bar. The film starts at 7:00pm. $5.00 admission at the door.' For more info contact the branch restaurant , 15 Clothier Street East, Old Town Kemptville, 613-258-3737.
August Music:
As mentioned, tonight we will feature host Dave Scully leading us in a Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute and jam…bring a guitar or something, it’s gonna be fun…(Tuesday, August 2; 7pm, no cover) This Friday and for three other Fridays this month, Frank and Birdie will be back singing songs of love, redemption and hope. And meatballs (Fridays 5, 19 &26; 7pm, no cover). This Saturday, Trevor Alguire is bringing his original country rock and rootsy stylings back to the branch… not only is he the master of the soulful country rock ballad, I've also been informed that he is also the master of a triple olly on a half-pipe (...a poor attempt by this clumsy fella at a skateboard in-joke, in case you were wondering...) but Saturday, he is back for another night of magic in his 'favourite place to play',(...but I'm sure he says that to all the venues...blushes...) (Saturday, August 6; 9pm, $10)
Next Friday, come see the Heroic Mad Peasants, aka; Shawn, Katie and Doug, as they bring their strings and sings from folk to roots to harmony and back again for all ages, from all ages and, despite the name, with hardly ever a single torch and pitchfork laden march on the town square to date. You wouldn’t want to miss the first one though, would you? Just sayin…(Friday, August 12; 7pm, no cover.) And next Saturday, speaking of heroic mad people, Brandon Agnew, branch favourite and one of Ottawa’s most exciting hidden treasures is back—Brandon brings a bit of New Orleans grit to a unique, honest lyric driven style that ranges from folk to indie to a kind of outsider jazz—He is a character, a storyteller, and an excellent way to spend a Saturday night! (Saturday, August 13; 9pm, $5)
The following Thursday is the return of Christo—The young talented Mr. Graham is well known locally for his precocious talent, at the tender age of just like 17 or 18 or something, he is at the branch to release his third(!) cd…He is joined on the record by Amanda Giles and for the show will feature a band going under the moniker ‘The Men of Science’. This, my friends, is a must-see. (Thursday, August 18; 9pm, $5) But just in case you can’t make it…he’s back with his pal Alex Leggett on that Saturday…Alex is another young, vibrant spirit—a Ganonoque kid whose music has taken from our nearest shore to a number of other venues abroad, including Wakefield’s famous stage at the Black Sheep Inn. He will be joined by Christo Graham as an opener, followed by a headline set of his own original pop and indie tunes. It’s a smiley show, folks, highly recommended! (Saturday, August 20; 9pm, $5)
Come back the next Thursday for another cd release show, this time with touring songstress Sarah MacDougall, her bio says it all: “Sarah MacDougall is a rising star on the Canadian Folk Music scene with her dynamite songs, blistering guitar chops and astounding voice. She has been earning rave reviews and topping major music writers top ten album of the year lists as a songwriter with her official debut album Across the Atlantic (2009), all the while producing and engineering her own music. Born in Sweden, 24 hrs Vancouver called her ‘one of the most promising exports out of Sweden since Abba’ and Across the Atlantic got four-star reviews in such notable publications as Q magazine, the Irish Times, No Depression, and many more.” So yeah, that’s Kemptville on Thursday night, where are you gonna be? Patrick Brealey, another touring singer songwriter will be opening… (Thursday August 25; 9pm--$10 advance or $12 at the door). Then come on back that Saturday for…well…me! That’s right, I, Chef Bruce, will be taking on a Saturday night on August 27thfor a rare appearance with the latest incarnation of a bit of a band thing we’ve got happening these days…aka ‘The Burning Sensations,’ featuring Jay Williams on bass and Ben Mullin on guitar, as well as some other folks, if they’re willin’! (Saturday, August 27; 9pm, no cover!)
OK, so I came to Canada for the first time in 2003 and settled here officially in 2005…So let’s just say I missed out on the whole ‘Spirit of the West’ thing…Trust me, I am making up for lost time. The branch is honoured this month to be a host to an actual Canadian legend, John Mann, lead singer and songwriter for the popular and talented band in question: here’s and excerpt from his website: ‘Mann pens beautiful melodies with emotionally honest lyrics that capture the intimate moments of his hometown of Vancouver, its occupants, the fragile details of their dysfunctional love and the loss of a city’s innocence. If Damien Rice was Jeff Tweedy and Jeff Tweedy was Josh Ritter, you’d come away with something kindred to December Looms.’ That, my friends is the making of an exciting evening at the branch—one to tell the kids about…(Tuesday, August 30; 8pm $22) Best to reserve ahead for this one, it is already filling up!
August Calendar:
Tuesday 2 ~ Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute ...Deadheads Unite! ...7pm, free!
Friday 5 ~ Frank Westernand Birdie Whyte...7pm, free!
Saturday 6 ~ Trevor Alguire, he's back! ...9pm, $10
Friday 12 ~ Heroic Mad Peasants …7pm, free!
Saturday 13 ~ Brandon Agnew...9pm, $5
Thursday 18 ~ Christo Graham, CD Release Party! ...9pm, $5
Friday 19 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte...7pm, free!
Saturday 20 ~ Alex Leggett...9pm, $5
Thursday 25 ~ Sarah Macdougall, 9pm, $12 ($10 advance) with Patrick Brealeyopening
Friday 26 ~ Frank Westernand Birdie Whyte...7pm, free!
Saturday 27 ~ Chef Bruce and the Burning Sensations …9pm, free!
Tuesday 30 ~ John Mann, former ‘Spirit of the West’ …8pm, $22
Saturday, July 30, 2011
july 30th, 2011, Food Day Canada, Chef's Tasting Menu
this little piggy...
house cured prosciutto from tony’s pig, seed to sausage salami, richard and sylvie’s last bit of cheese, chutney, pickles, bread, crackers
the unbearable lightness of bean...
warm salad of ernie’s green beans, red onions, smoked portobello mushrooms, goat’s cheese, dried cranberries, tim and colleen’s maple syrup in a maple-cider vinaigrette
birds of a feather, or, ‘what, the flock?’...
gary’s turkey and duck, kemptville farmers’ market veggies, crêpe, béchamel
a beef history of time...
dan’s beef striploin, grilled to your liking, pâté, blue cheese, mashed potatoes, peas, carrots, red wine gravy
a berry parfait ending...
fresh berries, ice-wine soaked tea cake, honeyed whipped cream, lemon thyme and purple basil
$55 per person
house cured prosciutto from tony’s pig, seed to sausage salami, richard and sylvie’s last bit of cheese, chutney, pickles, bread, crackers
the unbearable lightness of bean...
warm salad of ernie’s green beans, red onions, smoked portobello mushrooms, goat’s cheese, dried cranberries, tim and colleen’s maple syrup in a maple-cider vinaigrette
birds of a feather, or, ‘what, the flock?’...
gary’s turkey and duck, kemptville farmers’ market veggies, crêpe, béchamel
a beef history of time...
dan’s beef striploin, grilled to your liking, pâté, blue cheese, mashed potatoes, peas, carrots, red wine gravy
a berry parfait ending...
fresh berries, ice-wine soaked tea cake, honeyed whipped cream, lemon thyme and purple basil
$55 per person
Friday, June 17, 2011
Chef
Story Time:
One of the things I was looking for when I moved out to California was a mentor. I haven’t mentioned that to too many folks before now, but I did, honestly, have that exact thought. I had cooked with lots of other folks before that point, but, well, I had just never been all that impressed. I guess it was a mix of my ego, the confidence of youth, and, perhaps, bad luck...But I had never found anyone who was ‘so much better’ than me that I felt like I needed to listen all that closely to what they had to say. I have stated in other of these ‘newsletter stories’ that I was a bookworm, and that trick had allowed me the keyhole through which I could view a world of more exotic, more intellectual approaches to my chosen trade. But, to date, I had never met anyone who embodied the ideals and skills that I was seeking to absorb. I needed a chef, a real chef to bring me over that hill, to take me under their wing, to nurture my obvious talent... Instead, I met Eric Tucker. (Insert winky-face emoticon here)
I should not discount the fact that I learned much of what I know from other cooks and even chefs—John and Steve at Romeo’s, a kitschy Austin Italian joint, come to mind. John, who taught me to blacken chicken, had learned how to do it directly from Paul Prudhomme, the inventor of the technique; and Steve, who showed me the ropes on our wood fired pizza oven was a quiet, patient tutor whose first job was as an executive chef overseeing the menus of the multiple restaurants in the Comida Deluxe (Austin savvy folks will know it as the Chuy’s...) restaurant group. The consulting chefs who helped open the Brazos Brewing Company taught me how to make a hollandaise and Jason at Cenare gave me my first pair of checks and taught me how to sauté. Habib at Mother’s taught me patience and perfection as well as how to make a perfect hamburger bun (believe it or not, it involves jumping up and down...) There have been a number of generous teachers over the years who have each helped to teach me how to cook, but only one made me a chef.
When I went to San Francisco, I went to become a chef. I had some names in my pocket, not many, mostly from a (pre-internet) book of vegetarian restaurants for travelers that I had picked up at a discount book store. It was a little out of date, but accurate enough for me to know that If I wanted to work in high end vegetarian cuisine I had about three choices in the US: New York, Los Angeles, or San Francisco. My first thought had been, of course, cooking school, of which I could find only one that fit my (at that time) meat free agenda, The Natural Gourmet Cooking School in Manhattan. Exactly one weird, exhausting road trip later (it involves an ex-girlfriend, a night of debauchery in Washington D.C. on July the fourth, an awkward stay on the floor of an apartment on the Lower East Side, witnessing the death of a pedestrian in traffic and, finally, a conference at a school smaller than my parents house that involved graduates discussing jobs they had gotten that paid less than my current wage...) I decided that I was either not interested in cooking school, was too late for it, or, maybe, that I just wasn’t ready for New York.
San Francisco had more pages in the book than New York anyway. It had the Greens Restaurant, an institution whose cookbook stood as one of the most important textbooks in my self designed curriculum, and it contained a brief passage about a little place in San Rafael (just across the bridge from downtown) that sounded like my perfect choice: Milly’s Restaurant, a gourmet vegan destination... I was, at the time of planning that next step, a vegan, and as such, was obviously enamoured with the idea of finding myself settled into a cozy little gourmet vegan spot in the wealthy neighbourhood of downtown San Rafael...
I had also heard about Millennium from my boss at Mother’s Café in Austin; he knew a former employee who had moved out to San Francisco and found a sweet job waiting tables at a chic veggie place right downtown. Millennium wasn’t in my book, however, so I set the thought aside. I arrived in San Francisco by bus early one morning and checked into a youth hostel that became my home for the next 6 months(!) I quickly discovered that the cash in my pocket did not translate well from Texas dollars in to San Franciscan, and began schlepping my handmade single page, friendly, interesting (I hoped) resume to whoever would receive it. The Greens took a copy, but never called. Several other places did, but my big disappointment came after an hour long bus-ride into San Rafael, an ill fated trip that would have been quickly avoided by a high speed internet connection today—Milly’s was gone. The one that was my first choice, my great hope... just plain gone. No sign to mark its passing. I ended up at Herbivore, a brand new restaurant in the Mission district—Vegan, yes, which was nice, but mentor-less and too casual for what I had hoped to find. I was managing other cooks and writing recipes for this new job within weeks and found myself, yet again, unimpressed with what was on offer to be learned. Then, one day, wandering around my neighbourhood, I found Millennium by chance. Its sign made no mention of its vegetarian credentials, only my nagging memory of the name from my former boss’ mention drew the thought to mind—it was a scant three blocks from the youth hostel where my rucksack had found a semi-permanent home all while I had spent 3 or 4 months slogging vegan fast food two neighbourhoods away.
But there it was, ‘Millennium Organic Cuisine’, a sign I later found out had been a compromise borne out of a fear that even in downtown San Francisco, no-one would darken the door of a vegan restaurant unless lured in by less jarring words. The apologetic tone ended at the sign. Once inside, Margaret Mead’s famous quote adorned the mirror in the lobby “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing that ever has.” I ventured in, just for a look at first...and was amazed and hooked, even before I tasted my first bite. I knew as I read the menu that not only had I found my mecca at last, I had found my mentor. It was enough, all apologies omitted, words written by a chef for foodies, not compromised language for the unenlightened. It described a host of wild and exotic foods, ethnic preparations, traditional techniques that should not have been found on a vegan menu... Odd, eclectic, exciting stuff. In short, Eric Tucker’s food. Within the week I returned for a taste and decided then and there that Millennium was why I had moved to San Francisco and that I would not rest until I had a job. My resume was filed, my follow up calls made. I became a nuisance until, out of pity, I was sure, Eric finally called me in to help with a catering job. It was the foot in the door that I needed and for the next two or three weeks I would drop by or call and see if anything else had come up. It did, it turns out, within just weeks of that first visit; a lead line cook left, a perfect position for me, and it also turned out that I was not under-qualified (as I had feared) but, in fact, over... Most of the cooks in the Millennium kitchen came there through, of course, the externship program of the very same Natural Gourmet Cooking School in New York City that I had decided for many reasons not to attend—entry level positions are easy to fill if you have a long list of people who are willing to work for college credit... As the food was unconventional, in house training was almost essential to fill lower level positions; as such, most of those jobs were filled by most of these green and eager folks just moving up the food chain. My timing, it would seem, with a long resume filled with line cooking experience was kind of providential; an experienced line cook was not what most of these cooking school graduates were in any way qualified to replace.
Luck had repaid me it seems, in more ways than one: Millennium was, it turned out, a sister to Milly’s in San Rafael. Eric had moved to the Bay Area from New York after a stint at the Natural Gourmet to work for Milly’s; like me, he had come to that school with experience but, unlike me, he had decided that it was worth it and stayed to attend. On graduating and moving to San Rafael, he had quickly moved up through the ranks at Milly’s, apparently taking over the kitchen within a year or so. When the folks behind Milly’s decided to move into the city, Eric’s position as head chef of the new venture became a condition to the investors. Millennium went forward and Milly’s, along with its founders, eventually fell to the side, and the investors, Anne and Larry Wheat, took the reins instead. Basically, I had finally found what I had come out hoping to find.
At Millennium, I finally felt challenged. There was never an easy ride; every cook came to the table with ideas, every cook was qualified and competent and trained and every menu was an exercise in pushing a boundary. At the centre of this firestorm of creativity sat Eric Tucker, quiet, unassuming, childish at times, even prone to wild mood swings, but unquestionably the unmoving centre of it all.
Eric did not teach me to cook. Most of that I knew before I walked through the front door. He did not teach me how to boil a noodle or how to smoke a block of tofu, although, on occasion, he may have guided my technique or made a suggestion. Eric taught me how to taste. How to take all those techniques and ideas and to put them together in a bowl and to taste them. His method of teaching was ’no.’ Or, more often, ‘not quite.’ Like a good bandleader from my days in rock & roll, he would bring in his own ‘songs’ or recipes and teach them to us as needed, and then he would take our ideas and help us craft them. I remember bringing in an idea for a cactus gumbo, it needed another element, ‘a roux?’ I suggested...’how about toasted cormeal instead?’ he countered. Minutes later I had my best recipe to date with the aid of his one simple idea. He had that knack for taking a good idea and pushing it to the next level. Eric taught us to cook by never accepting something as being just ‘good enough.’ At times he drove me crazy; his repeated refusal to even attempt some of my ideas felt like censorship, but, in retrospect, it wasn’t my name on the menu. And, to be fair, I was getting more ideas past him (or more songs on the record, if you will) than any of my co-workers were. So much so, that within the year I made sous chef.
‘Chef’ is a funny word. I think of it like ‘poet’: it’s something that you cannot call yourself. Chef, technically, just means chief, or boss, in this instance, the boss of a professional kitchen. At one point, I, like most people, thought it was a name that was applied to someone who is a really good cook—I now know that although cooking is important, maybe even the most important part of a chef’s job, it is only the tip of the iceberg. A good chef must be an efficient manager of goods, ordering, receiving, organizing an inventory; a good chef must be a hard worker, setting an example for his or her crew; a good chef must be a good listener and a good teacher, Eric knew and, I’m sure, knows some critical piece of data about every person in his employ, a favourite song, a joke that always gets a smile, which word makes them cringe... A good chef must inspire people to try new things, to expand their horizons. Lots of people are chefs these days, ‘personal chefs’, ‘bbq chefs’, ‘top chefs’, ‘T.V. chefs’, and, I guess, by my rule of that title being one that only others can bestow on you, that they have as much right to that word as anyone else. But when you are like me, unschooled, never having gone through a formal apprenticeship, that word means much, much more. Eric, when he promoted me, gave me that title for the first time. In my mind, he literally made me a chef. For that I am forever grateful.
Eric is not perfect. He, if he’s reading this, is cringing; he’s one of those guys who doesn’t do well with praise. So, to balance, I’ll admit that he wasn’t always the best communicator (neither am I); kitchens are high stress places and we all drop the ball. He is the best cook I’ve ever worked with, but even he will admit to a baroque streak, a tendency to keep adding elements until the plate is within moments of being completely overwhelmed. He and I used to laugh with manic glee as we rushed to assemble these monstrous incredible structures of flavour, texture and form in time for dinner service. Eric is imperfect alright. And fun. There are a thousand stories of colourful histories we concocted to dupe the newer and/or more gullible members of the staff in order to keep ourselves entertained. But never (...well, almost never,) out of cruelty.
He’s also...too far away, and Nicole and I miss dropping in on him. There is not one time I can recall that he couldn’t make me laugh if he really wanted to. And these days, for reasons I’ll omit, there are days when I wish I could find some way to be there for him as well.
Eric had a successful run with Millennium’s first cookbook; so much so that they asked him to write another. Eric honoured me and showed his true colours by inviting me to not only help with the new book, but to also share a full writer’s credit, something he was in no way obligated to do. Eric not only gave me my dream of being a chef, he gave me my dream of being a published author as well.
In 1995, living in Austin, I still wanted to be a rock star, maybe a writer. At New Year’s I decided that I was tired of fighting for too small a niche in too competitive of a scene; I knew I loved cooking and that if I applied myself, I could make a go of it. A year and a half later, I was the sous chef at one of the top rated vegetarian restaurants in North America. Don’t ever let anyone tell you there is something that you cannot do.
Eric Tucker is not the world’s biggest celebrity chef. He is well known within a community, but I can assure you he is among the best. His palate is flawless, his instincts are perfect and by at least one measure, he is someone whose influence will last long past his already substantial career. a few years back, I was able to travel to Philadelphia to help Eric cook a dinner for that city’s prestigious ‘Book and the Cook’ cookbook festival...On hand, besides myself were 3 other folks who had worked with Eric and gone on to become chefs in our own kitchens...I can track at least a half dozen other folks, just from my ‘class’ who have gone on to lead kitchens, become personal chefs, open catering companies, or even to help revolutionize the industry with ‘dinner club’ style moveable restaurants. Sean Baker, a sous chef from the year after I left went on to open ‘Gather’ in Berkeley and in 2010 was named Esquire Magazine’s ‘Chef of the Year.’ And even here in Ottawa, miles away from the left coast, another of Eric’s protégé’s, Caroline Ishii of Zen Kitchen, has been garnering a number of rave reviews...Eric doesn’t just make great food, he makes great cooks...
Eric Tucker came from New Jersey; he went out to San Francisco in 1992, a few years before I got there, and within a year and half he was the chef at the restaurant where he had come to train. This year, the restaurant that he helped to start and still holds on course with his steady hand is 17 years old. I know now that in restaurant years that is the equivalent of about one million. I went out to San Francisco to find a mentor, instead I found a chef, my chef, and I found a friend. Thanks, Eric.
One of the things I was looking for when I moved out to California was a mentor. I haven’t mentioned that to too many folks before now, but I did, honestly, have that exact thought. I had cooked with lots of other folks before that point, but, well, I had just never been all that impressed. I guess it was a mix of my ego, the confidence of youth, and, perhaps, bad luck...But I had never found anyone who was ‘so much better’ than me that I felt like I needed to listen all that closely to what they had to say. I have stated in other of these ‘newsletter stories’ that I was a bookworm, and that trick had allowed me the keyhole through which I could view a world of more exotic, more intellectual approaches to my chosen trade. But, to date, I had never met anyone who embodied the ideals and skills that I was seeking to absorb. I needed a chef, a real chef to bring me over that hill, to take me under their wing, to nurture my obvious talent... Instead, I met Eric Tucker. (Insert winky-face emoticon here)
I should not discount the fact that I learned much of what I know from other cooks and even chefs—John and Steve at Romeo’s, a kitschy Austin Italian joint, come to mind. John, who taught me to blacken chicken, had learned how to do it directly from Paul Prudhomme, the inventor of the technique; and Steve, who showed me the ropes on our wood fired pizza oven was a quiet, patient tutor whose first job was as an executive chef overseeing the menus of the multiple restaurants in the Comida Deluxe (Austin savvy folks will know it as the Chuy’s...) restaurant group. The consulting chefs who helped open the Brazos Brewing Company taught me how to make a hollandaise and Jason at Cenare gave me my first pair of checks and taught me how to sauté. Habib at Mother’s taught me patience and perfection as well as how to make a perfect hamburger bun (believe it or not, it involves jumping up and down...) There have been a number of generous teachers over the years who have each helped to teach me how to cook, but only one made me a chef.
When I went to San Francisco, I went to become a chef. I had some names in my pocket, not many, mostly from a (pre-internet) book of vegetarian restaurants for travelers that I had picked up at a discount book store. It was a little out of date, but accurate enough for me to know that If I wanted to work in high end vegetarian cuisine I had about three choices in the US: New York, Los Angeles, or San Francisco. My first thought had been, of course, cooking school, of which I could find only one that fit my (at that time) meat free agenda, The Natural Gourmet Cooking School in Manhattan. Exactly one weird, exhausting road trip later (it involves an ex-girlfriend, a night of debauchery in Washington D.C. on July the fourth, an awkward stay on the floor of an apartment on the Lower East Side, witnessing the death of a pedestrian in traffic and, finally, a conference at a school smaller than my parents house that involved graduates discussing jobs they had gotten that paid less than my current wage...) I decided that I was either not interested in cooking school, was too late for it, or, maybe, that I just wasn’t ready for New York.
San Francisco had more pages in the book than New York anyway. It had the Greens Restaurant, an institution whose cookbook stood as one of the most important textbooks in my self designed curriculum, and it contained a brief passage about a little place in San Rafael (just across the bridge from downtown) that sounded like my perfect choice: Milly’s Restaurant, a gourmet vegan destination... I was, at the time of planning that next step, a vegan, and as such, was obviously enamoured with the idea of finding myself settled into a cozy little gourmet vegan spot in the wealthy neighbourhood of downtown San Rafael...
I had also heard about Millennium from my boss at Mother’s Café in Austin; he knew a former employee who had moved out to San Francisco and found a sweet job waiting tables at a chic veggie place right downtown. Millennium wasn’t in my book, however, so I set the thought aside. I arrived in San Francisco by bus early one morning and checked into a youth hostel that became my home for the next 6 months(!) I quickly discovered that the cash in my pocket did not translate well from Texas dollars in to San Franciscan, and began schlepping my handmade single page, friendly, interesting (I hoped) resume to whoever would receive it. The Greens took a copy, but never called. Several other places did, but my big disappointment came after an hour long bus-ride into San Rafael, an ill fated trip that would have been quickly avoided by a high speed internet connection today—Milly’s was gone. The one that was my first choice, my great hope... just plain gone. No sign to mark its passing. I ended up at Herbivore, a brand new restaurant in the Mission district—Vegan, yes, which was nice, but mentor-less and too casual for what I had hoped to find. I was managing other cooks and writing recipes for this new job within weeks and found myself, yet again, unimpressed with what was on offer to be learned. Then, one day, wandering around my neighbourhood, I found Millennium by chance. Its sign made no mention of its vegetarian credentials, only my nagging memory of the name from my former boss’ mention drew the thought to mind—it was a scant three blocks from the youth hostel where my rucksack had found a semi-permanent home all while I had spent 3 or 4 months slogging vegan fast food two neighbourhoods away.
But there it was, ‘Millennium Organic Cuisine’, a sign I later found out had been a compromise borne out of a fear that even in downtown San Francisco, no-one would darken the door of a vegan restaurant unless lured in by less jarring words. The apologetic tone ended at the sign. Once inside, Margaret Mead’s famous quote adorned the mirror in the lobby “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing that ever has.” I ventured in, just for a look at first...and was amazed and hooked, even before I tasted my first bite. I knew as I read the menu that not only had I found my mecca at last, I had found my mentor. It was enough, all apologies omitted, words written by a chef for foodies, not compromised language for the unenlightened. It described a host of wild and exotic foods, ethnic preparations, traditional techniques that should not have been found on a vegan menu... Odd, eclectic, exciting stuff. In short, Eric Tucker’s food. Within the week I returned for a taste and decided then and there that Millennium was why I had moved to San Francisco and that I would not rest until I had a job. My resume was filed, my follow up calls made. I became a nuisance until, out of pity, I was sure, Eric finally called me in to help with a catering job. It was the foot in the door that I needed and for the next two or three weeks I would drop by or call and see if anything else had come up. It did, it turns out, within just weeks of that first visit; a lead line cook left, a perfect position for me, and it also turned out that I was not under-qualified (as I had feared) but, in fact, over... Most of the cooks in the Millennium kitchen came there through, of course, the externship program of the very same Natural Gourmet Cooking School in New York City that I had decided for many reasons not to attend—entry level positions are easy to fill if you have a long list of people who are willing to work for college credit... As the food was unconventional, in house training was almost essential to fill lower level positions; as such, most of those jobs were filled by most of these green and eager folks just moving up the food chain. My timing, it would seem, with a long resume filled with line cooking experience was kind of providential; an experienced line cook was not what most of these cooking school graduates were in any way qualified to replace.
Luck had repaid me it seems, in more ways than one: Millennium was, it turned out, a sister to Milly’s in San Rafael. Eric had moved to the Bay Area from New York after a stint at the Natural Gourmet to work for Milly’s; like me, he had come to that school with experience but, unlike me, he had decided that it was worth it and stayed to attend. On graduating and moving to San Rafael, he had quickly moved up through the ranks at Milly’s, apparently taking over the kitchen within a year or so. When the folks behind Milly’s decided to move into the city, Eric’s position as head chef of the new venture became a condition to the investors. Millennium went forward and Milly’s, along with its founders, eventually fell to the side, and the investors, Anne and Larry Wheat, took the reins instead. Basically, I had finally found what I had come out hoping to find.
At Millennium, I finally felt challenged. There was never an easy ride; every cook came to the table with ideas, every cook was qualified and competent and trained and every menu was an exercise in pushing a boundary. At the centre of this firestorm of creativity sat Eric Tucker, quiet, unassuming, childish at times, even prone to wild mood swings, but unquestionably the unmoving centre of it all.
Eric did not teach me to cook. Most of that I knew before I walked through the front door. He did not teach me how to boil a noodle or how to smoke a block of tofu, although, on occasion, he may have guided my technique or made a suggestion. Eric taught me how to taste. How to take all those techniques and ideas and to put them together in a bowl and to taste them. His method of teaching was ’no.’ Or, more often, ‘not quite.’ Like a good bandleader from my days in rock & roll, he would bring in his own ‘songs’ or recipes and teach them to us as needed, and then he would take our ideas and help us craft them. I remember bringing in an idea for a cactus gumbo, it needed another element, ‘a roux?’ I suggested...’how about toasted cormeal instead?’ he countered. Minutes later I had my best recipe to date with the aid of his one simple idea. He had that knack for taking a good idea and pushing it to the next level. Eric taught us to cook by never accepting something as being just ‘good enough.’ At times he drove me crazy; his repeated refusal to even attempt some of my ideas felt like censorship, but, in retrospect, it wasn’t my name on the menu. And, to be fair, I was getting more ideas past him (or more songs on the record, if you will) than any of my co-workers were. So much so, that within the year I made sous chef.
‘Chef’ is a funny word. I think of it like ‘poet’: it’s something that you cannot call yourself. Chef, technically, just means chief, or boss, in this instance, the boss of a professional kitchen. At one point, I, like most people, thought it was a name that was applied to someone who is a really good cook—I now know that although cooking is important, maybe even the most important part of a chef’s job, it is only the tip of the iceberg. A good chef must be an efficient manager of goods, ordering, receiving, organizing an inventory; a good chef must be a hard worker, setting an example for his or her crew; a good chef must be a good listener and a good teacher, Eric knew and, I’m sure, knows some critical piece of data about every person in his employ, a favourite song, a joke that always gets a smile, which word makes them cringe... A good chef must inspire people to try new things, to expand their horizons. Lots of people are chefs these days, ‘personal chefs’, ‘bbq chefs’, ‘top chefs’, ‘T.V. chefs’, and, I guess, by my rule of that title being one that only others can bestow on you, that they have as much right to that word as anyone else. But when you are like me, unschooled, never having gone through a formal apprenticeship, that word means much, much more. Eric, when he promoted me, gave me that title for the first time. In my mind, he literally made me a chef. For that I am forever grateful.
Eric is not perfect. He, if he’s reading this, is cringing; he’s one of those guys who doesn’t do well with praise. So, to balance, I’ll admit that he wasn’t always the best communicator (neither am I); kitchens are high stress places and we all drop the ball. He is the best cook I’ve ever worked with, but even he will admit to a baroque streak, a tendency to keep adding elements until the plate is within moments of being completely overwhelmed. He and I used to laugh with manic glee as we rushed to assemble these monstrous incredible structures of flavour, texture and form in time for dinner service. Eric is imperfect alright. And fun. There are a thousand stories of colourful histories we concocted to dupe the newer and/or more gullible members of the staff in order to keep ourselves entertained. But never (...well, almost never,) out of cruelty.
He’s also...too far away, and Nicole and I miss dropping in on him. There is not one time I can recall that he couldn’t make me laugh if he really wanted to. And these days, for reasons I’ll omit, there are days when I wish I could find some way to be there for him as well.
Eric had a successful run with Millennium’s first cookbook; so much so that they asked him to write another. Eric honoured me and showed his true colours by inviting me to not only help with the new book, but to also share a full writer’s credit, something he was in no way obligated to do. Eric not only gave me my dream of being a chef, he gave me my dream of being a published author as well.
In 1995, living in Austin, I still wanted to be a rock star, maybe a writer. At New Year’s I decided that I was tired of fighting for too small a niche in too competitive of a scene; I knew I loved cooking and that if I applied myself, I could make a go of it. A year and a half later, I was the sous chef at one of the top rated vegetarian restaurants in North America. Don’t ever let anyone tell you there is something that you cannot do.
Eric Tucker is not the world’s biggest celebrity chef. He is well known within a community, but I can assure you he is among the best. His palate is flawless, his instincts are perfect and by at least one measure, he is someone whose influence will last long past his already substantial career. a few years back, I was able to travel to Philadelphia to help Eric cook a dinner for that city’s prestigious ‘Book and the Cook’ cookbook festival...On hand, besides myself were 3 other folks who had worked with Eric and gone on to become chefs in our own kitchens...I can track at least a half dozen other folks, just from my ‘class’ who have gone on to lead kitchens, become personal chefs, open catering companies, or even to help revolutionize the industry with ‘dinner club’ style moveable restaurants. Sean Baker, a sous chef from the year after I left went on to open ‘Gather’ in Berkeley and in 2010 was named Esquire Magazine’s ‘Chef of the Year.’ And even here in Ottawa, miles away from the left coast, another of Eric’s protégé’s, Caroline Ishii of Zen Kitchen, has been garnering a number of rave reviews...Eric doesn’t just make great food, he makes great cooks...
Eric Tucker came from New Jersey; he went out to San Francisco in 1992, a few years before I got there, and within a year and half he was the chef at the restaurant where he had come to train. This year, the restaurant that he helped to start and still holds on course with his steady hand is 17 years old. I know now that in restaurant years that is the equivalent of about one million. I went out to San Francisco to find a mentor, instead I found a chef, my chef, and I found a friend. Thanks, Eric.
branch newsletter summer 2011
Greetings Summer Folk!
Well, the solstice is coming, the peak, the longest day, it is time to be outdoors, to be reveling in the full long light of the sun! Our patio is here for you, we have cast off under sail (literally...) for the summer season...For those that have not been out recently, last fall, the old wall had to come down—we all loved the old patio, but it’s state of disrepair was beyond our abilities to fix. We decided, however, that if we had to do it, that we would go all the way...Tom Lillico, John Brewer, Heather Cranek and Denise and Steve Busby (as well as many others) have all stepped up over the last few months with a bit here and a bit there and we have managed to create a new space that is not only larger (licensed for up to 40 people!) but airier (is that a word?), brighter, and more comfortable than ever—incorporating rough cedar posts, burlap, a recycled sail, shiny tables and hanging baskets of edible flowers into a cozy nook far from the cares of Kemptville or, for that matter, the world. And don’t worry, the grapevine survived and looks healthier than ever!
So, besides lounging on the patio, how shall we spend this summer? Well, if you’re around here you’ll have lots of choices...We’ve already had a pile of amazing music, with a pile more on the way—some memorable moments have included a sold out night with Ottawa’s favourite daughter, Lynn Miles (featuring Keith Glass), The Dandelion Festival, shows with Oh My Darling, Petunia, Greg Kelly, and a full house for a Bob Dylan birthday tribute night; some things coming up include a Sunday afternoon with Dave Martel (this Sunday!), the return of Folk Music Award winner Ariana Gillis (Thursday, June 30) and a personal favourite, Lynne Hanson (June 25)...We’ve also got Ontario Craft Beer week next week with a ‘six beers in three courses’ theme menu running all week long, designed to celebrate the diverse and exciting beer culture of the Ottawa Valley (3 course menu starts next Tuesday, come kick it off with a BBQ on the patio this Sunday afternoon!)
Art on the walls:
This month we are proud to feature work from ArtScene, the groovy collective from Spencerville: Although many know about events such as the Spencerville Fair, Veteran’s Memorial Highland Games, and more recently the Country Christmas Remembered festival, they may be pleasantly surprised to see how a commercial heart is also beating in the village of Spencerville.
Highway 416, while bypassing the village, makes it very reachable by anyone seeking to get off the beaten track. The village’s many heritage stone buildings tell a story of a community that grew up alongside a grist mill, the recently restored Spencerville Mill, which traces its roots back to the mid 1800’s. For six years the Mill has hosted a fine art show and sale; it is this core group of local artists and entrepreneurs who took it one step further...
A committed group of artists living in and around the scenic village of Spencerville recently combined their efforts and invested in a lifelong dream to open a Gallery they call ArtScene Spencerville. The founding artists, who have shown together annually at the nearby, historic Spencerville Mill, have a wealth of experience and involvement in this community. They wanted to not only have a place to showcase their own work on a continuing basis, but also to enrich the artistic awareness of this historic hamlet. The old Spencerville Hotel, which has been converted to apartments and retail space, is the location for this lively group. The open space is an ideal setting for the works of painters, photographers, potters, jewellers and a sculptor. Located in the centre of the village, the historic building has always attracted the interest of locals as well as travelers en route to the Nation’s Capital.
July Art:
Marguerite Boyer and her students:
During the long winter hours this past year, a group of artists, ranging from beginners to experts have been meeting once a week to paint under the tutelage of local artist, Marguerite Boyer. The studio time offers individuals an opportunity to discuss their paintings, to receive encouragement and to share their knowledge. For the first time ever, for some of them, they will be displaying their work, at the branch restaurant. They would like to thank the owners for giving them this opportunity. Please feel free to drop in and view their work.
June Music:
Starting, well, 2 Fridays ago, Frank Western, aka, ‘the man in the coonskin cap in a pigpen’, as he was so eloquently described by Dr. Robert Zimmerman in his 1968 classic, Subhonourarium Homesicle Blueperiods #12 and 35, along with his blushing bride with the banjo on her knee, the fabulous Miss Birdie Whyte, began what can only be described as an Irregular Friday Showcase, Talent Show and Wild West Revue (and Occasional Snake Oil Demonstration.) Irregular, as, it would seem, not only does it not occur every Friday, it can also be said that there is nothing regular about either the ringleader, Mr. Western, or his sidekick, Ms. Whyte. The music, however, is above reproach. Come see for yourself this Friday (June 17th) as well as on some other (...irregularly scheduled, naturally,) Fridays yet to come. Saturday features a couple of road weary veterans, John Allaire is Ottawa based and has more than a few awards and accolades under his belt after 20+ years touring and gracing stages across Canada; his co-hort in this endeavor is Bill Toms, who for over a decade played guitar in what has been described as Bruce Springsteen’s bar band, the Houserockers. With about a dozen album credits (including one produced by the Boss himself,) with them, with others and even just on his own, Bill certainly can be called a road warrior in the truest sense of the word...in short, these two gentlemen have certainly earned the label chosen for this brief tour: “Hearts of Steel,” come check it out this Saturday, June 18, 9pm, $5.
Sunday the 19th heralds the return of Canada’s closest reply to the question ‘Sufjan Stevens?’ With the words, ‘Dave Martel.’ Which is to say, indie, pop, performance, talent, skill, harmony, quality, lyricism, stage presence...all bundled together in a package, set to go, and displayed for your approval. For just $8 you get to see this world class performer, his four piece band and an opening set with Kemptville’s very own Ben and Heather Mullin, two people who seem, (to us at least,) to sing, speak and even think in perfect harmony and pitch. Come early for BBQ on the patio, paired with Kemptville’s best selection of craft brewed local beer in honour of Ontario’s official Craft Beer week. Music starts at 4pm, there will be an $8 cover for the music.
Friday June 24th is another Frank and Birdie show, followed by Ms. Lynne Hanson on June 25th. Lynne is a songwriter with a knack for a hook that keeps on reeling you in, day after day, month after month and even year after year...I’ve spent years listening to each of her three outstanding records and am still astonished to find great new bits and deeper depths with every listen. Highly recommended. This duo show (Saturday, June 25th) will be $8 and will start at 9pm.
If you missed 2009 Canadian Folk Music award winner Ariana Gillis’ last show at the branch, ask anyone who was there if it was worth seeing. I’ve heard ‘That’s the best show I’ve ever seen in this room,’ I’ve heard, ‘I can’t believe I just saw that in Kemptville,’ and, honestly, I’ve even said some fairly superlative things about it myself. But don’t take my word for it; Ariana is a star on the rise, she is young, incredibly talented, beautiful, and someday soon you’ll be saying, ‘I can’t believe I had a chance to see her at the branch...’ just don’t follow it with ‘...I wish I had...’ Thursday (...technically a Friday, since you’ll be off work on Friday...) June 30th, $10.
We are closed on Canada Day, but Saturday July 2nd we’ll be open and ready to rock with Brock Zeman, Ottawa’s hardest working country rocker. If you like barroom dust, tales of broken women and burned out honky tonk wranglers, songs about whiskey, life and a life of whiskey, then you’ll already know Brock Zeman, he’s that guy, two stools down, telling you the best story you’ve ever heard. Except this time, he’s got a guitar...9pm, $5.
Tuesday July 5th is my 40th birthday. You can do what you like on those round number birthdays, or so I’ve heard. Turns out Ringo Starr, the drummer and lead comedy actor of my favourite band (you know, the Bee-at-uls...) turns 71 just 2 days later. What do I want? I want to celebrate my 40 years so far by celebrating not only Ringo’s but all four Fabs legacy...and I want to do it singing with a bunch of my best friends...I have issued a ‘Fab 4 40th’ challenge to local music types, asking them to pay tribute to the Beatles with either a song for each Beatle or a medley, parody or even just a passing nod...We will start early and stay late and we will have fun. I hope you’ll all help me kick off my next decade in style! Tuesday, July 5th, 6pm or so...no cover...
Huntley Slim and the Suburban Cowboys are back on July 9th with their brand of what I call ‘Newgrass’ or ‘Punk Pickin’ or maybe even just ‘Twang’ music...these youngsters play original music on bluegrass instruments, they play fast and they play well...the stops that they have made at the branch in the past have always sent home lots of folks with grinning faces...that could be you! 9pm, $5...July 16th.
The week of July 10-16 is music city at the branch...the 10th is my Loose and Juicy acoustic jam, always a good reason to dust off your bazoukis, washboards, mouth-harps and castanets; Tuesday brings us the Alex Bien band from Toronto, an indie folk four piece that will feature acoustic solo sets from 2 other members (7pm, free!)...Thursday brings Lauren Mann and the Fairly Odd Folk (and Reeves) on their Cross Canada ‘Summer of Colour’ tour...Frank and Birdie perform that Friday and on Saturday...Well, the folks from River City Junction stopped in for cups of coffee and a Rubber Boots Buffet a couple of weeks back and after about 20 minutes we’d made new friends, then, after a listen online to their jammin’ hot brand of Classic Rockin’ Blues, we realized that we may have found the new fix for all you Roosterman addicts out there...Come on in Saturday, July 16 and see for yourself! 9pm, $5. Quite a week! I’ll buy a beer for anyone who makes it out to all 4 shows!
Frank and Birdie will be back the next Friday (July 22) and one of the coolest indie-roots songsmiths we’ve ever had at the branch will be back that Saturday...You may have heard him on the last trip through, when he joined local favourite John Carroll for a night of great tunes, or maybe even from the spins his buzzy new record has gotten on CBC Radio’s ‘the Vinyl Café’; Toronto’s Ron Leary, the man with the magnificent chops, sings ‘songs of love, devotion, poverty, revolution, murder and numerous odes to the highway life...’. Ron Leary (with his folk trio) plays July 23rd at 9pm, $5
July wraps up with awesome tunes by a couple of Ottawa’s brightest rising stars...they’ve been performing as Emmylou Harris and Gram Parsons in ‘Grievous Angel’ a theatrical music show that has garnered rave reviews from near and far, but on Saturday, June 30th, they will be showing you that they are not just two folks who can do justice to a legend...they are, in fact, at the moment of birthing a legend of their own. Anders Drerup was the lead guitarist, a vocalist and one of the songwriters for branch favourites Silver Creek before heading out on his own, and Kelly Prescott is warming her way into all of our hearts with her catchy, groovy rock n’ rootsy country blues album that has been spinning constantly on the trusty old branch stereo ever since we got our copy...Saturday, July 30th, $8.
August, I may as well warn you, is coming on strong as well; with a Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute, as well as confirmed dates with Trevor Alguire, Brandon Agnew, Christo Graham and Alex Leggett (see below for dates) and with more names yet to come...I guess what I’m sayin’ is stick around; it just keeps getting better!
June Calendar:
Friday 17 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free! Now most Fridays!
Saturday 18 ~ John Allaire and Bill Toms (Springsteen produced)...9pm, $5
Sunday 19 ~ Dave Martel... 4pm, $8 Ben and Heather Mullin opening...
Sunday 19-Saturday 24 ~ Ontario Craft Beer Week, Try our "six beers in three courses" tasting menu with a BBQ kickoff this Sunday for Father's Day featuring live music from Dave Martel (BBQ is served from 2pm, music starts at 4pm, $8 cover...)
Friday 24 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free!
Saturday 25 ~ Lynne Hanson, as good as it gets!...9pm, $8
Sunday 26 ~ Open Stage 3-6pm
Thursday 30 ~ Ariana Gillis multiple folk music award winner...9pm, $10
July Calendar:
Friday 1 ~ CLOSED for firecrackers, bbq and cold cheap beer day...
Saturday 2 ~ Brock Zeman Red Dirt Country Rockin'...9pm, $5
Tuesday 5 ~ Chef Bruce (40) and Ringo's (71) Birthday Jam featuring songs of the Beatles--A 'Fab Four Fortieth Birthday' 6pm, free! Everyone is welcome, call ahead to sign up to play...also featuring wood fired Texas bbq on the patio!
Saturday 9 ~ Huntley Slim 'Newgrass'...9pm, $5
Sunday 10 ~ Chef Bruce's Loose and Juicy Acoustic Jam ...3-6pm
Tuesday 12 ~ Alex Bien Band Toronto folk-rocksters ...7pm, free!
Thursday 14 ~ Lauren Mann and the Fairly Odd Folk and Reeves ...7pm, free!
Friday 15 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free!
Saturday 16 ~ River City Junction Blues and Classic Rock...9pm, $5
Friday 22 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free!
Saturday 23 ~ Ron Leary ...9pm, $5
Saturday 30 ~ Kelly Prescott and Anders Drerup (aka Gram and Emmylou of Grevious Angel, appearing here as...themselves!) 9pm, $8
Sunday 31 ~ closed... for... something...maintenance?
August Calendar:
Tuesday 2 ~ Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute ...Deadheads Unite! ...7pm
Saturday 6 ~ Trevor Alguire, he's back! ...9pm, $10
Saturday 13 ~ Brandon Agnew ...9pm, $5
Thursday 18 ~ Christo Graham, CD Release Party! ...9pm, $5
Saturday 20 ~ Alex Leggett ...9pm, $5
Well, the solstice is coming, the peak, the longest day, it is time to be outdoors, to be reveling in the full long light of the sun! Our patio is here for you, we have cast off under sail (literally...) for the summer season...For those that have not been out recently, last fall, the old wall had to come down—we all loved the old patio, but it’s state of disrepair was beyond our abilities to fix. We decided, however, that if we had to do it, that we would go all the way...Tom Lillico, John Brewer, Heather Cranek and Denise and Steve Busby (as well as many others) have all stepped up over the last few months with a bit here and a bit there and we have managed to create a new space that is not only larger (licensed for up to 40 people!) but airier (is that a word?), brighter, and more comfortable than ever—incorporating rough cedar posts, burlap, a recycled sail, shiny tables and hanging baskets of edible flowers into a cozy nook far from the cares of Kemptville or, for that matter, the world. And don’t worry, the grapevine survived and looks healthier than ever!
So, besides lounging on the patio, how shall we spend this summer? Well, if you’re around here you’ll have lots of choices...We’ve already had a pile of amazing music, with a pile more on the way—some memorable moments have included a sold out night with Ottawa’s favourite daughter, Lynn Miles (featuring Keith Glass), The Dandelion Festival, shows with Oh My Darling, Petunia, Greg Kelly, and a full house for a Bob Dylan birthday tribute night; some things coming up include a Sunday afternoon with Dave Martel (this Sunday!), the return of Folk Music Award winner Ariana Gillis (Thursday, June 30) and a personal favourite, Lynne Hanson (June 25)...We’ve also got Ontario Craft Beer week next week with a ‘six beers in three courses’ theme menu running all week long, designed to celebrate the diverse and exciting beer culture of the Ottawa Valley (3 course menu starts next Tuesday, come kick it off with a BBQ on the patio this Sunday afternoon!)
Art on the walls:
This month we are proud to feature work from ArtScene, the groovy collective from Spencerville: Although many know about events such as the Spencerville Fair, Veteran’s Memorial Highland Games, and more recently the Country Christmas Remembered festival, they may be pleasantly surprised to see how a commercial heart is also beating in the village of Spencerville.
Highway 416, while bypassing the village, makes it very reachable by anyone seeking to get off the beaten track. The village’s many heritage stone buildings tell a story of a community that grew up alongside a grist mill, the recently restored Spencerville Mill, which traces its roots back to the mid 1800’s. For six years the Mill has hosted a fine art show and sale; it is this core group of local artists and entrepreneurs who took it one step further...
A committed group of artists living in and around the scenic village of Spencerville recently combined their efforts and invested in a lifelong dream to open a Gallery they call ArtScene Spencerville. The founding artists, who have shown together annually at the nearby, historic Spencerville Mill, have a wealth of experience and involvement in this community. They wanted to not only have a place to showcase their own work on a continuing basis, but also to enrich the artistic awareness of this historic hamlet. The old Spencerville Hotel, which has been converted to apartments and retail space, is the location for this lively group. The open space is an ideal setting for the works of painters, photographers, potters, jewellers and a sculptor. Located in the centre of the village, the historic building has always attracted the interest of locals as well as travelers en route to the Nation’s Capital.
July Art:
Marguerite Boyer and her students:
During the long winter hours this past year, a group of artists, ranging from beginners to experts have been meeting once a week to paint under the tutelage of local artist, Marguerite Boyer. The studio time offers individuals an opportunity to discuss their paintings, to receive encouragement and to share their knowledge. For the first time ever, for some of them, they will be displaying their work, at the branch restaurant. They would like to thank the owners for giving them this opportunity. Please feel free to drop in and view their work.
June Music:
Starting, well, 2 Fridays ago, Frank Western, aka, ‘the man in the coonskin cap in a pigpen’, as he was so eloquently described by Dr. Robert Zimmerman in his 1968 classic, Subhonourarium Homesicle Blueperiods #12 and 35, along with his blushing bride with the banjo on her knee, the fabulous Miss Birdie Whyte, began what can only be described as an Irregular Friday Showcase, Talent Show and Wild West Revue (and Occasional Snake Oil Demonstration.) Irregular, as, it would seem, not only does it not occur every Friday, it can also be said that there is nothing regular about either the ringleader, Mr. Western, or his sidekick, Ms. Whyte. The music, however, is above reproach. Come see for yourself this Friday (June 17th) as well as on some other (...irregularly scheduled, naturally,) Fridays yet to come. Saturday features a couple of road weary veterans, John Allaire is Ottawa based and has more than a few awards and accolades under his belt after 20+ years touring and gracing stages across Canada; his co-hort in this endeavor is Bill Toms, who for over a decade played guitar in what has been described as Bruce Springsteen’s bar band, the Houserockers. With about a dozen album credits (including one produced by the Boss himself,) with them, with others and even just on his own, Bill certainly can be called a road warrior in the truest sense of the word...in short, these two gentlemen have certainly earned the label chosen for this brief tour: “Hearts of Steel,” come check it out this Saturday, June 18, 9pm, $5.
Sunday the 19th heralds the return of Canada’s closest reply to the question ‘Sufjan Stevens?’ With the words, ‘Dave Martel.’ Which is to say, indie, pop, performance, talent, skill, harmony, quality, lyricism, stage presence...all bundled together in a package, set to go, and displayed for your approval. For just $8 you get to see this world class performer, his four piece band and an opening set with Kemptville’s very own Ben and Heather Mullin, two people who seem, (to us at least,) to sing, speak and even think in perfect harmony and pitch. Come early for BBQ on the patio, paired with Kemptville’s best selection of craft brewed local beer in honour of Ontario’s official Craft Beer week. Music starts at 4pm, there will be an $8 cover for the music.
Friday June 24th is another Frank and Birdie show, followed by Ms. Lynne Hanson on June 25th. Lynne is a songwriter with a knack for a hook that keeps on reeling you in, day after day, month after month and even year after year...I’ve spent years listening to each of her three outstanding records and am still astonished to find great new bits and deeper depths with every listen. Highly recommended. This duo show (Saturday, June 25th) will be $8 and will start at 9pm.
If you missed 2009 Canadian Folk Music award winner Ariana Gillis’ last show at the branch, ask anyone who was there if it was worth seeing. I’ve heard ‘That’s the best show I’ve ever seen in this room,’ I’ve heard, ‘I can’t believe I just saw that in Kemptville,’ and, honestly, I’ve even said some fairly superlative things about it myself. But don’t take my word for it; Ariana is a star on the rise, she is young, incredibly talented, beautiful, and someday soon you’ll be saying, ‘I can’t believe I had a chance to see her at the branch...’ just don’t follow it with ‘...I wish I had...’ Thursday (...technically a Friday, since you’ll be off work on Friday...) June 30th, $10.
We are closed on Canada Day, but Saturday July 2nd we’ll be open and ready to rock with Brock Zeman, Ottawa’s hardest working country rocker. If you like barroom dust, tales of broken women and burned out honky tonk wranglers, songs about whiskey, life and a life of whiskey, then you’ll already know Brock Zeman, he’s that guy, two stools down, telling you the best story you’ve ever heard. Except this time, he’s got a guitar...9pm, $5.
Tuesday July 5th is my 40th birthday. You can do what you like on those round number birthdays, or so I’ve heard. Turns out Ringo Starr, the drummer and lead comedy actor of my favourite band (you know, the Bee-at-uls...) turns 71 just 2 days later. What do I want? I want to celebrate my 40 years so far by celebrating not only Ringo’s but all four Fabs legacy...and I want to do it singing with a bunch of my best friends...I have issued a ‘Fab 4 40th’ challenge to local music types, asking them to pay tribute to the Beatles with either a song for each Beatle or a medley, parody or even just a passing nod...We will start early and stay late and we will have fun. I hope you’ll all help me kick off my next decade in style! Tuesday, July 5th, 6pm or so...no cover...
Huntley Slim and the Suburban Cowboys are back on July 9th with their brand of what I call ‘Newgrass’ or ‘Punk Pickin’ or maybe even just ‘Twang’ music...these youngsters play original music on bluegrass instruments, they play fast and they play well...the stops that they have made at the branch in the past have always sent home lots of folks with grinning faces...that could be you! 9pm, $5...July 16th.
The week of July 10-16 is music city at the branch...the 10th is my Loose and Juicy acoustic jam, always a good reason to dust off your bazoukis, washboards, mouth-harps and castanets; Tuesday brings us the Alex Bien band from Toronto, an indie folk four piece that will feature acoustic solo sets from 2 other members (7pm, free!)...Thursday brings Lauren Mann and the Fairly Odd Folk (and Reeves) on their Cross Canada ‘Summer of Colour’ tour...Frank and Birdie perform that Friday and on Saturday...Well, the folks from River City Junction stopped in for cups of coffee and a Rubber Boots Buffet a couple of weeks back and after about 20 minutes we’d made new friends, then, after a listen online to their jammin’ hot brand of Classic Rockin’ Blues, we realized that we may have found the new fix for all you Roosterman addicts out there...Come on in Saturday, July 16 and see for yourself! 9pm, $5. Quite a week! I’ll buy a beer for anyone who makes it out to all 4 shows!
Frank and Birdie will be back the next Friday (July 22) and one of the coolest indie-roots songsmiths we’ve ever had at the branch will be back that Saturday...You may have heard him on the last trip through, when he joined local favourite John Carroll for a night of great tunes, or maybe even from the spins his buzzy new record has gotten on CBC Radio’s ‘the Vinyl Café’; Toronto’s Ron Leary, the man with the magnificent chops, sings ‘songs of love, devotion, poverty, revolution, murder and numerous odes to the highway life...’. Ron Leary (with his folk trio) plays July 23rd at 9pm, $5
July wraps up with awesome tunes by a couple of Ottawa’s brightest rising stars...they’ve been performing as Emmylou Harris and Gram Parsons in ‘Grievous Angel’ a theatrical music show that has garnered rave reviews from near and far, but on Saturday, June 30th, they will be showing you that they are not just two folks who can do justice to a legend...they are, in fact, at the moment of birthing a legend of their own. Anders Drerup was the lead guitarist, a vocalist and one of the songwriters for branch favourites Silver Creek before heading out on his own, and Kelly Prescott is warming her way into all of our hearts with her catchy, groovy rock n’ rootsy country blues album that has been spinning constantly on the trusty old branch stereo ever since we got our copy...Saturday, July 30th, $8.
August, I may as well warn you, is coming on strong as well; with a Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute, as well as confirmed dates with Trevor Alguire, Brandon Agnew, Christo Graham and Alex Leggett (see below for dates) and with more names yet to come...I guess what I’m sayin’ is stick around; it just keeps getting better!
June Calendar:
Friday 17 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free! Now most Fridays!
Saturday 18 ~ John Allaire and Bill Toms (Springsteen produced)...9pm, $5
Sunday 19 ~ Dave Martel... 4pm, $8 Ben and Heather Mullin opening...
Sunday 19-Saturday 24 ~ Ontario Craft Beer Week, Try our "six beers in three courses" tasting menu with a BBQ kickoff this Sunday for Father's Day featuring live music from Dave Martel (BBQ is served from 2pm, music starts at 4pm, $8 cover...)
Friday 24 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free!
Saturday 25 ~ Lynne Hanson, as good as it gets!...9pm, $8
Sunday 26 ~ Open Stage 3-6pm
Thursday 30 ~ Ariana Gillis multiple folk music award winner...9pm, $10
July Calendar:
Friday 1 ~ CLOSED for firecrackers, bbq and cold cheap beer day...
Saturday 2 ~ Brock Zeman Red Dirt Country Rockin'...9pm, $5
Tuesday 5 ~ Chef Bruce (40) and Ringo's (71) Birthday Jam featuring songs of the Beatles--A 'Fab Four Fortieth Birthday' 6pm, free! Everyone is welcome, call ahead to sign up to play...also featuring wood fired Texas bbq on the patio!
Saturday 9 ~ Huntley Slim 'Newgrass'...9pm, $5
Sunday 10 ~ Chef Bruce's Loose and Juicy Acoustic Jam ...3-6pm
Tuesday 12 ~ Alex Bien Band Toronto folk-rocksters ...7pm, free!
Thursday 14 ~ Lauren Mann and the Fairly Odd Folk and Reeves ...7pm, free!
Friday 15 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free!
Saturday 16 ~ River City Junction Blues and Classic Rock...9pm, $5
Friday 22 ~ Frank Western and Birdie Whyte ...7pm, free!
Saturday 23 ~ Ron Leary ...9pm, $5
Saturday 30 ~ Kelly Prescott and Anders Drerup (aka Gram and Emmylou of Grevious Angel, appearing here as...themselves!) 9pm, $8
Sunday 31 ~ closed... for... something...maintenance?
August Calendar:
Tuesday 2 ~ Jerry Garcia Birthday Tribute ...Deadheads Unite! ...7pm
Saturday 6 ~ Trevor Alguire, he's back! ...9pm, $10
Saturday 13 ~ Brandon Agnew ...9pm, $5
Thursday 18 ~ Christo Graham, CD Release Party! ...9pm, $5
Saturday 20 ~ Alex Leggett ...9pm, $5
Thursday, May 12, 2011
A spring-time picnic for the family...
Asparagus ‘Fries’ with Rhubarb-Maple Ketchup; Black Bean Hummus Burritos with Fresh Corn Tortillas; and Abigail’s Raspberry-Coconut Muffins
At the branch restaurant, we have found that an ever increasing proportion of our clientele are seeking out gluten free options for their families; according to at least one source, these days, as many as one in eight people is sensitive or even allergic to gluten-containing products, if you think about it, that means that almost every other family may have a gluten intolerant member! Nicole and I are no exception, in fact, our daughter Abigail is in that number. As a chef, I feel lucky, after all, coming up with new food ideas within limitations is my stock and trade, but for many folks, many of whom have always enjoyed the comforts of easy picnics like burgers, hot dogs or even just plain old ham and cheese or peanut butter sandwiches, this means scrambling for new ways to feed our kids with these issues healthy and tasty foods that are still fun and not too far out there for the more ‘skeptical’ eaters...For this feature Nicole and I thought we’d share some ideas that are good for Abigail, along with the rest of those who are gluten sensitive out there, but that are also tasty and fun foods for anyone looking for some new picnic ideas!
Asparagus ‘Fries’ and Rhubarb-Maple ‘Ketchup’;
You can’t beat local, seasonal food for flavour and colour, two thing that keep even the hardest to please happy, but when in doubt, some smoke and mirrors may help to bring a tougher sell (like green veggies) to your pickier eaters...Try presenting this fun, seasonal treat in a small paper sack like the fries from your favourite chip stand...I bet that if you can sell them on the first bite, you’ll have a brand new spring-time favourite on your hands!
serves 4
For the ketchup:
3 cups rhubarb stems, washed and sliced thin against the grain
½ small red onion, peeled and sliced
½ cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 tablespoons wheat free Tamari soy sauce
For the fries:
1 to 2 bundles of asparagus, trimmed (depending on the size of the asparagus and your appetites...)
corn starch or arrowroot powder
oil for frying
salt and pepper to taste
In a medium saucepan, bring several cups of salted water to a boil. Blanch the rhubarb and onion together for just one minute, (until soft but still brightly coloured,) then drain and cool. In a blender or small food processor, combine the cooked rhubarb and onion mixture, the maple syrup, tamari, and tomato paste and blend until smooth.
Heat about a half inch of frying oil in skillet large enough to hold the trimmed asparagus spears, dust the spears with the cornstarch or arrowroot powder and fry in batches, draining on a paper towel, season to taste, then pack the fried spears into a small paper bag to look like your kid’s favourite French fries and serve with the sweet and tart rhubarb ketchup for dipping.
Black Bean Hummus Burritos on Fresh Corn Tortillas;
This southwestern style hummus is a call back to my Texas roots. It is a both delicious and healthy filler for tacos or burritos and it travels well, which, as we all know, is an essential for any successful picnic. Serve it on fresh, homemade corn tortillas if you have the time, (Maseca brand masa is available in some local shops, the instructions for making the tortillas is on the bag..) or on your favourite gluten free (or even regular) wrap. Make your picnic a fun party by bringing a selection of different toppings such as lettuce, tomatoes, salsa, sour cream, cheese, onions, guacamole and fresh cilantro, and, if you are like me, a couple of minced fresh jalapenos! Best to keep those hot peppers away from the non-Texan kids, however, and yes, sadly, that is the voice of experience talking...
Black Bean Hummus:
serves 4
3 cups cooked black beans
6 tablespooons pumpkin seed butter (available in health food shops)
juice and zest of 1 large lime
2 teaspoons of cumin seed, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon salt
2 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
4-6 tablespooons fresh cilantro (coriander), tough stems removed and roughly chopped
¼ cup salad oil, such as sunflower or canola
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (or LOTS more to taste! You know, depending on the kid...or the other parent...)
Combine all ingredients in a blender or small food processor and blend until smooth, adding a bit more oil (or water, if you prefer,) if necessary.
Abigail’s Raspberry Coconut Muffins:
Our little girl is on a strict diet that limits most carbohydrates, these muffins are a fun treat that we have adapted and perfected over the last few months using coconut flour (which is available in many health food stores,) and whatever berries or fruit we have in the freezer left over from last fall’s crop...So far, the judge has given us an unqualified thumb’s up on our efforts!
(makes about one dozen regular muffins which will keep well in the fridge...if they survive the picnic that is...)
6 large eggs, separated
1 cup coconut flour, sifted
¾ cup coconut milk
3 tablespoons sunflower seed oil
½ cup honey
2 cups frozen raspberries
pinch of salt
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Prepare a standard twelve muffin tin with spray or cupcake liners. Using a mixer with a whisk attachment; beat the egg whites until stiff (hard peaks.) In a separate bowl combine the yolks with the coconut milk, oil and honey and whisk together. Sift in the coconut flour and combine. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the egg whites, taking care not to over mix; then sprinkle on the raspberries.
Place the muffin tin, empty, into the hot oven for five minutes to preheat. Working quickly, remove the warm tin to a heat-safe surface and, using an ice cream scoop, portion the batter into the warm tin and return to the oven. Immediately reduce the heat to 350 degrees. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into one of the central muffins comes out dry.
Turn out when cool and enjoy!
At the branch restaurant, we have found that an ever increasing proportion of our clientele are seeking out gluten free options for their families; according to at least one source, these days, as many as one in eight people is sensitive or even allergic to gluten-containing products, if you think about it, that means that almost every other family may have a gluten intolerant member! Nicole and I are no exception, in fact, our daughter Abigail is in that number. As a chef, I feel lucky, after all, coming up with new food ideas within limitations is my stock and trade, but for many folks, many of whom have always enjoyed the comforts of easy picnics like burgers, hot dogs or even just plain old ham and cheese or peanut butter sandwiches, this means scrambling for new ways to feed our kids with these issues healthy and tasty foods that are still fun and not too far out there for the more ‘skeptical’ eaters...For this feature Nicole and I thought we’d share some ideas that are good for Abigail, along with the rest of those who are gluten sensitive out there, but that are also tasty and fun foods for anyone looking for some new picnic ideas!
Asparagus ‘Fries’ and Rhubarb-Maple ‘Ketchup’;
You can’t beat local, seasonal food for flavour and colour, two thing that keep even the hardest to please happy, but when in doubt, some smoke and mirrors may help to bring a tougher sell (like green veggies) to your pickier eaters...Try presenting this fun, seasonal treat in a small paper sack like the fries from your favourite chip stand...I bet that if you can sell them on the first bite, you’ll have a brand new spring-time favourite on your hands!
serves 4
For the ketchup:
3 cups rhubarb stems, washed and sliced thin against the grain
½ small red onion, peeled and sliced
½ cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 tablespoons wheat free Tamari soy sauce
For the fries:
1 to 2 bundles of asparagus, trimmed (depending on the size of the asparagus and your appetites...)
corn starch or arrowroot powder
oil for frying
salt and pepper to taste
In a medium saucepan, bring several cups of salted water to a boil. Blanch the rhubarb and onion together for just one minute, (until soft but still brightly coloured,) then drain and cool. In a blender or small food processor, combine the cooked rhubarb and onion mixture, the maple syrup, tamari, and tomato paste and blend until smooth.
Heat about a half inch of frying oil in skillet large enough to hold the trimmed asparagus spears, dust the spears with the cornstarch or arrowroot powder and fry in batches, draining on a paper towel, season to taste, then pack the fried spears into a small paper bag to look like your kid’s favourite French fries and serve with the sweet and tart rhubarb ketchup for dipping.
Black Bean Hummus Burritos on Fresh Corn Tortillas;
This southwestern style hummus is a call back to my Texas roots. It is a both delicious and healthy filler for tacos or burritos and it travels well, which, as we all know, is an essential for any successful picnic. Serve it on fresh, homemade corn tortillas if you have the time, (Maseca brand masa is available in some local shops, the instructions for making the tortillas is on the bag..) or on your favourite gluten free (or even regular) wrap. Make your picnic a fun party by bringing a selection of different toppings such as lettuce, tomatoes, salsa, sour cream, cheese, onions, guacamole and fresh cilantro, and, if you are like me, a couple of minced fresh jalapenos! Best to keep those hot peppers away from the non-Texan kids, however, and yes, sadly, that is the voice of experience talking...
Black Bean Hummus:
serves 4
3 cups cooked black beans
6 tablespooons pumpkin seed butter (available in health food shops)
juice and zest of 1 large lime
2 teaspoons of cumin seed, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon salt
2 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
4-6 tablespooons fresh cilantro (coriander), tough stems removed and roughly chopped
¼ cup salad oil, such as sunflower or canola
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (or LOTS more to taste! You know, depending on the kid...or the other parent...)
Combine all ingredients in a blender or small food processor and blend until smooth, adding a bit more oil (or water, if you prefer,) if necessary.
Abigail’s Raspberry Coconut Muffins:
Our little girl is on a strict diet that limits most carbohydrates, these muffins are a fun treat that we have adapted and perfected over the last few months using coconut flour (which is available in many health food stores,) and whatever berries or fruit we have in the freezer left over from last fall’s crop...So far, the judge has given us an unqualified thumb’s up on our efforts!
(makes about one dozen regular muffins which will keep well in the fridge...if they survive the picnic that is...)
6 large eggs, separated
1 cup coconut flour, sifted
¾ cup coconut milk
3 tablespoons sunflower seed oil
½ cup honey
2 cups frozen raspberries
pinch of salt
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Prepare a standard twelve muffin tin with spray or cupcake liners. Using a mixer with a whisk attachment; beat the egg whites until stiff (hard peaks.) In a separate bowl combine the yolks with the coconut milk, oil and honey and whisk together. Sift in the coconut flour and combine. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the egg whites, taking care not to over mix; then sprinkle on the raspberries.
Place the muffin tin, empty, into the hot oven for five minutes to preheat. Working quickly, remove the warm tin to a heat-safe surface and, using an ice cream scoop, portion the batter into the warm tin and return to the oven. Immediately reduce the heat to 350 degrees. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into one of the central muffins comes out dry.
Turn out when cool and enjoy!
Meredith Luce, on the release of her new live album...
Meredith Luce is a chickadee...like that cute quirky little bird of
which she has written, her sweet, reedy and full, clear voice is the
piccolo pure solo in the concerto of any afternoon--to say nothing of
her remarkable guitar playing and her intelligent, emotionally mature
and well-crafted songs. Her music is one of our favourite sounds here
at the branch where we have had the honour of hearing it so many
times; she came to us for the first time over 4 years ago as a
teenager with a precocious talent, I'll never forget her first
show...we were having a quiet night, but she was on fire--there were
only about 5 people in the room, but after experiencing the magnetic
presence of this talented artist, at the next show, everyone who had
been to the first came back and brought friends...a trend that has
continued unabated ever since to the point that we now have to turn
people away whenever we are lucky enough to have her back. It has been
a pleasure and a thrill to be among those folks in the front row
watching her grow into that big voice and all of those incredible
stories. Meredith was an easy choice as the first artist to perform
in our new 'Listening Room' series of shows, (the show that is
documented here,) and this cd will make that apparent to anyone who
hears it for one simple reason...she is well worth listening to.'
--Bruce Enloe
which she has written, her sweet, reedy and full, clear voice is the
piccolo pure solo in the concerto of any afternoon--to say nothing of
her remarkable guitar playing and her intelligent, emotionally mature
and well-crafted songs. Her music is one of our favourite sounds here
at the branch where we have had the honour of hearing it so many
times; she came to us for the first time over 4 years ago as a
teenager with a precocious talent, I'll never forget her first
show...we were having a quiet night, but she was on fire--there were
only about 5 people in the room, but after experiencing the magnetic
presence of this talented artist, at the next show, everyone who had
been to the first came back and brought friends...a trend that has
continued unabated ever since to the point that we now have to turn
people away whenever we are lucky enough to have her back. It has been
a pleasure and a thrill to be among those folks in the front row
watching her grow into that big voice and all of those incredible
stories. Meredith was an easy choice as the first artist to perform
in our new 'Listening Room' series of shows, (the show that is
documented here,) and this cd will make that apparent to anyone who
hears it for one simple reason...she is well worth listening to.'
--Bruce Enloe
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