Recipe Fun!

New Zealand has done an excellent job of marketing its lamb to the world, which is a shame, as we in Ontario are blessed with an even better quality of lamb, actually grass-fed and explosive in flavour as opposed to the feedlot ‘beef light’ flavour of New Zealand’s finest frozen multi-thousand mile travelers (yes, that was me calling them out!). I especially love the lamb from British and African transplants Tim and Roshan from Aubin Farms in Spencerville (available at the Brockville and Kemptville Farmers’ Markets), it has a rich earthy flavour, and although I do love the spice, it really needs very little to bring out its special qualities. It tastes like food, real and hearty, and is a great way to herald in the long cool winter months. To me, it doesn’t just taste good, it tastes like Ontario. October is still mild enough to bring out the smoker (at least it is for me...), but you wimps out there can follow the same steps, skipping the smoker and going straight to the oven for an extra couple of hours to execute a simple braise. Fortunately, our local lamb is good enough that it will still present an excellent meal! This recipe is a tribute to Tim and Roshan Aubin’s African years, my Texas years and our shared Canadian present...

Smoked Lamb Shoulder with Corn Pudding, Mint-Apple Chutney and Braised Greens

1 large lamb shoulder, bone-in, about 3-4 pounds
3 tablespoons salt
3 tablespoons prepared mustard
3 tablespoons ground chilies
3 tablespoons Sucanat (brown sugar)
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped
Wood chips
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup apple cider

Preheat the broiler in your oven. Soak the wood chips in water for 30 minutes; I use local wood such as black walnut, apple and maple. If you are using a charcoal or wood smoker, start the fire first and allow to burn down to a steady even bed of coals, internal smoker temperature should be no less than 250 and no more than 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Combine the spices and herbs and rub the paste all over the lamb shoulder. On a cookie sheet or in a roaster, brown the shoulder under the broiler, depending on the heat of your broiler and how far the rack is, it should take about 10 minutes per side. Turn off the broiler. Drain the woodchips and wrap in foil with some holes poked in it or place on an old pan right on to the coals or the electric coil (if using an electric smoker). Place the meat on a rack as far from the coals or coil as possible and over a drip pan, close the smoker lid and allow to smoke for two hours, keeping a close eye on the smoker temperature and quantity of smoke and adjusting wood, charcoal or chips as needed. Near the end of the two hours, set your oven temperature to 325 degrees. Remove the lamb shoulder and place in a roasting pan. Add 1 cup apple cider vinegar and 1 cup apple cider, cover and braise in the oven for at least 2-4 hours, or until the bone lifts out of the meat with no resistance.

While the lamb is cooking, prepare the Corn Pudding:

2 tablespoons butter, softened
6 eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup coarse corn meal
½ cup flour
1 cup freshly shucked sweet corn
1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
4 cups milk
A pitcher filled with water

To present the plate as it is shown in the picture, you will need 6 oven safe six ounce ramekins or small heavy cups and a pyrex or roasting dish that holds them all comfortably (they must sit evenly). Use the butter to grease the ramekins. Combine all the other ingredients in a mixing bowl with a wooden spoon. Divide the mixture into the ramekins and place in the oven (325 degrees, with the lamb). On the oven rack, to avoid spilling, fill the dish around the ramekins with the water in the pitcher, as close as is possible to the top lip of the dishes. Bake in the center of the rack for 1 to 1 and a half hours, until the puddings are set. For an easier presentation, bake the pudding in a single dish, following the same steps (the water bath promotes even cooking), and allow your guests to serve themselves at the table (trust me, this is how I would do it at home!)

To serve, allow the puddings to cool in the dishes for about 20 minutes, and then turn out onto the plates to present, they may need a little encouragement to loosen them from the sides of the dish.

Mint Apple Chutney:

1 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon curry powder
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 hot chili, minced
6 apples, peeled, cored and diced
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons salt
½ cup mint leaves, loosely packed

In a saucepan, sauté the ginger and curry powder in the vegetable oil until aromatic, add the remaining ingredients, through the salt and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the apples are soft. Chop the mint and stir in before serving.

Braised greens

In the south, we boil greens to death, usually with a hunk of salt pork and onions. These days, I like to leave a little green in my leaves...

1 large bunch braising greens, such as Swiss chard, washed, stems removed and chopped
½ onion, sliced thin
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt, pepper and lemon to taste

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. In a separate pan, begin to sauté the onion and garlic in the vegetable oil over medium heat. Blanch the greens in the water for 30-45 seconds, until they just begin to soften, lift them from the boiling water with a strainer or slotted spoon, drain well, then add them to the pan with the onions. Cook the greens, stirring, for a minute or so; then season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon, and serve immediately.